FOOD SECTIONAL: Fasting before Thanksgiving


Highway robbery, in progress. Credit: Evan Sung/NYT

There’s not much to chew on in Food Sectional when everyone’s obsessed with Thanksgiving. And while I’m not in the business of comparing recipes, as a former food editor I have a special reserve of sympathy for those forced to come up with new stories on turkeys, side dishes and traditions every damn year.

So here’s what we’ve got: LA Times’ Irene S. Virbilia gives two stars to Melrose Bar & Grill (aka Doug Arango’s); Frank Bruni doles out a Poor (!) rating to the once-venerable Harry Cipriani:

Over the years the Cipriani restaurant family and its employees have faced charges of sexual harassment, insurance fraud and tax evasion, the last leading to guilty pleas by two family members in July.

But the crime that comes to mind first when I think of the Ciprianis is highway robbery. Based on my recent experience, that’s what happens almost any time Harry Cipriani on Fifth Avenue serves lunch or dinner.


At San Francisco Chronicle, Michael Bauer says quality has taken a dive at the once-fab Kuleto’s and Tara Duggan writes about the crisis facing San Francisco restaurants: Between the cost of living and waiters making a city-mandated $9.14 an hour, no one can afford to work in the kitchen.


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