Weekend forecast: Thomas Keller’s fried chicken

Thomas Keller and Joel Gott eating fried chicken in the backyard. Your mileage may vary.

I’ve threatened it for years, but it took Thomas Keller for me to make good: This weekend, for the first time, I will fry chicken.

This is the fried chicken Keller does at his casual restaurant, Ad Hoc. More importantly, Keller strikes me as a complete obsessive and if anyone’s fried chicken recipe is going to work, it would be his. It’s in the September issue of Bon Appetit, which published an article featuring Keller cooking a "easy, casual" Napa wine dinner with winemaker/Taylor’s Refresher co-owner Joel Gott.

Apparently, this is the same recipe Keller published in Food & Wine less than a year earlier, in which he made a "delicious, down-home" Napa wine dinner with winemaker Alexis Swanson Traina.

Does any chef ever make a "complex, demanding" dinner at home? Maybe that’s impossible after becoming inured to the demands of a professional kitchen. I vaguely remember what that’s like, but it’s been years since I had to stumble out of a restaurant’s back door at 1 am to hose down stinky, sticky black rubber floor mats. Nowadays, the fact that I’ll have to stop at Ralph’s after dinner tonight to buy the chicken for overnight brining qualifies as heavy lifting.


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